If using the correct screws and length to go through both pieces would your holding power be about the same as the steel purling? I like the holding power of the closer spacing of the rows of screws but that is twice as many holes for potential leaks. We will be using pine 1x4 for laths and I think the house roof deck is pine 1 " center match. Posted 09:53 (#860775 - in reply to #860445) Subject: Re: Metal roofing laths on house I have found the metal will bend if I step between the sheeting. is a long step if you are going to stay on the sheeting. Will the 26ga hold up if you have to be on top of the roof, 5ft. Posted 08:43 (#860700 - in reply to #860445) Subject: Re: Metal roofing laths on house P>S> Might also consider roll caulking at overlap joints. Posted 23:18 (#860445 - in reply to #860138) Subject: Re: Metal roofing laths on houseĢ6 gauge is a standard for steel buildings, the 5' center you have been told about are to hold that metal to a steel purlin or girt, considering you are drilling into wood which has less strength to hold a screw I would not go any less than the 30" you mentioned, since your in or close to what's called tornado alley I would also double screw at the bottom and also one the edges of the first and last panel as mentioned earlier,I would consider tech screws, "the overlapping sheet screws" every 24inches, and don't forget to overlap the panels properly for the prevailing wind,good luck and let us know how it turns out.JD One thing I was thinking about was not using anymore screws than are necessary but I also want enough there won't be any danger of it pulling off. The four foot centers on the laths might be something to consider. The salesman for the metal said that the 29 gauge was actually less likely to be damaged by hail than the thicker. I had Mothers car shed done a few years ago and I think that stuff is 29 or thinner. I think alot of what is used around here might be 29 gauge. I don't know what gauge metal is on my shed or what is normally used but the metal for the house is 26 gauge. It looks just like the metal on the steel framed building I have. I think that would be regular barn steel. Posted 21:25 (#860276 - in reply to #860229) Subject: Re: Metal roofing laths on house ) Removed the asphalt shingles but left the old wood shingles as sheeting material, 2x4's on top of that. ( Yes, the 2x4's were doubled up at the bottom edge. spacing ) to prevent the wind from peeling it up. Double screwed it at the bottom edge ( 5 in vert. Metal was secured with 2 1/4 in screws 12 inch spacing horiz. Where each 2x4 crossed a underlying rafter, I drove a 7 in. I installed a 26 guage metal roof on my barn, 2x4's spaced 24in. Posted 21:13 (#860257 - in reply to #860138) Subject: RE: Metal roofing laths on house He figured the material and trim for me and I already have it on site. I have a local carpender helping that has done a few metal roofs already. Posted 21:10 (#860250 - in reply to #860217) Subject: Re: Metal roofing laths on house We figured the shingles would help deaden sound and so far it sems to work.even though we had a couple of hail storms to test it. If your're talking regular barn steel we ran 1x4's right over the old shingles 4'OC. Posted 20:48 (#860229 - in reply to #860138) Subject: Re: Metal roofing laths on house Real interested in how you make out on your project. No help here, but I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Posted 20:40 (#860217 - in reply to #860138) Subject: Re: Metal roofing laths on house We will be stripping the old shingle roof off so we can be sure and hit the rafters when nailing the laths. Will a lath every 30" be of any use or should I just go every 5'. We will be using Mc Elroy Steel R panel that is a 26 gauge material with 1.25" ribs on 12" spacing and 3' wide sheets. We are getting ready to install metal roofing on my mothers house and I am wondering what spacing most use for their laths. Posted 19:29 (#860138) Subject: Metal roofing laths on house Metal roofing laths on house Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1
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